Moebius Models Flying Sub 1/32nd Scale


Page Number
I feel like a dabblin'..
Dabbling With Decking To Be Precise.
Whatcha gang.
Well here we are again and sooner than I thought it was going to be but anyway's, here's the next sub-riveting installment.
So the last time the deck had been painted it's shade of metallic blue.
Mind you what shade that is depends on where you stand looking at it and you'll see for yaselves in the pics.
So the next stage is the hatch thing in the floor which is the hexagon closest to the front of the deal.

Or the left hand one in this pic.

Now going by the screen cap, it's grey with a kind of yellowish stripe and sliver handles with black backing.
A bit like this...

Now you'll notice one thing here i'm sure.
The said yellowish stripe and grey colour are under the clear dimpled effect.
Oh joy of joys.
Well...if that's how it's supposed to look then s'pose i'd better try and do it that way.
Turn over and have at it with the masking tape then...

Just used a desert yellow enamel for the line and once dry and tape removed then in with an acrylic mid grey.
Finally touch over the handle and hinge areas with matt black and silver for handle and hinges.
Which all worked out and oddly enough wound up as follows...











Well that didn't work out too shabby so onward!

Now the rest of the hexagons always seemed to me to be a kinda yellow/light tan sort of deal.
Well my intent is to back light so solid paint was out the window.
Well after applying my standard light bleed stopper of aluminium foil tape, time to give that some thought.
Best I could come up with was this, Tamiya clear yellow with about 100% thinner in to make a wash then slowly build up mit der airbrush.
This wound up like so...







So all that duly dealt with, the framework was attached to where it should be.



As said before, I intend to back light the deck hexagons but that's a job for EL sheet.
Why electro luminescent sheet you may ask?.
Simple answer, not really enough room for anything else to do the job properly from my admittedly limited perspective.
You'll see what I mean in the pic below.

Now you can see the rim of the bottom docking ring part through the clear plastic with the deck part in proper place.
I would estimate there is approx 1mm or about 1/32nd" space left to play with so that kinda puts LED's and light boxes out of the picture for me.
We'll come back to that when the EL sheet doohickey arrives and I have the usual screamin' match tryin' to sort it out.

So outward and onward, time for the internal walls and suchlike to get a look in.
So these are they, the walls and front instrument panel.

Well going from the screen caps I have a good idea of the lighting and so forth so mucho holes drilled out and the foil tape applied as usual.







So a clean up and final rim up and yea verily, the goodly primer of plastic was laid on...oh yes!



Couple of things here, first up the front instrument panel.
Now unless you leave the top docking ring loose so you can remove it to see inside, the best you can see is a sideways look in the windows and just catch a glimpse of the ends of the panel.
Called client on this, his answer was don't leave it loose so the panel will not be seen as such so a basic paint job and only the extremities lit required.
Not that i'm that bothered as it saves me a job to be honest so all good there.
The second thing is the handles on the lockers under the bunk.
Going by the screen caps, they should be recessed handles.
Who am I to argue so this was done 'fore priming.



Final bit 'fore calling it a day to let the primer and other stuff settle overnight, a quick zap of glass frosting spray.
Specifically to the clear part that makes up the flashing reactor thingy at the back of the interior.





Nicely diffuse so that'll help with the lighting effect when I get around to fiddling with that bit.
And that's that for now, most likely more coming up soon so until next time and more mumbling's from the hellhole...

You lot go easy out there now!


Page Number