Moebius Models Seaview With Upgrades & Lighting 1/128th Scale Or Thereabouts


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LED's, plastic, wire, putty...
More Lighting Methinks.
Right then gang, time for some exterior light hoo-ha.
Well the forward light and the two either side of the FS-1 bay are to get sorted.
A fairly simple job, the side lights wree fitted with thin plasticard glued to the inside, a 3mm hole drilled, LED placed, wired and puttied in.



Nose light by way of a short piece of plastic pipe, likewise with the glue/wiring/putty lark.

So duly wired up and lighting test, likewise the LED's already installed in the main body of the sub.
Yeah I know I never touched off the building of the main bulk but it's not that interesting I promise you.













Well very little grief to be had.
So about time for some metinks.
It's Time To Limber Up For Some Limber Hole Larking About.
OK gang, there are more than a few options here depending on wether you want to replicate the limber hole setup on the 8 or 17 foot model.
Well since this is, in the main for myself and I don't care about which is which in the slightest, the plates from the PE fret will be used as is.
I just want a decent model of the Seaview and with luck, this is what will happen.
Onward!

So then, the instructions layout what plastic should be removed/filled in and so on for fitting the brass parts.
I'll be doing basically the same with only a slight deviation.
First, said areas to be hacked out were marked, corner drilled and removed leaving some material inbetween the holes as extra back support for the PE plate.
The instructions say to remove the lot but like all things i'm just damn contrary as some may tell you.





Once the slicing...and grinding of teeth...was sorted, then came the curved sheet of plasticard to fill in the back and make the impression of the pressure hull.
Once in a goodly dab of grey paint applied.



Lastly, the PE plate was given a sanding with some 240 grit on the back face then by use of cyano and epoxy glue, applied to the appropriate spot.







Neat, clean and a hell of a lot sharper than I could make them by cutting out the plastic trust me.
Now one thing, the line you can see on the plate above the holes should be to the inside.
It's a cut line where you should remove the brass dependant on the version your building.
I just swapped the parts and left the line to the outside for my own not terribly important reasons which may become clear later and i'll not bore you with on this update.

So the same sort of thing will be done with the rear limber holes so to assist in this and for another reason, the doors at the aft underside where the mini-sub and diving bell usually get dropped and/or lowered from were removed.

And that's the lot for now me hearties!
See you next update and as always, go easy me modeling muckas.


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