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Sovereign Replicas Enterprise 1701-E
1/650th Scale

Clicketh here for the redoutable page 1Click here for page 2 if you feel so inclined mate.Hit it here for the page 3 thingPage 4 can be got to by clicking here...honestPage 5...here...i kid thee not...Egad Brain...we can get to page six by clicking here...Narf!Page 7, light on words, heavy on picsGood grief, page 8Page 9...obvious but I just thought i'd mention itPage 10...double figures...good eh?

Page 11, Second line of pages, We not done yet it would seem!Page 12, Just no end to this!Yep it's that number 13, however nothing went wrong...Page 14, nice to be backPage 15...the silly stuff begins herePage 16, Makin' progress for oncePage 17, Al good bleary eyed buggerin' aboutPage 18, Lookin' goodPage 19, Just some fiddlin' about ya knowPage 20, Only a few more pages...honest!

Page 21, still goings on going onPage 22 Done with the bulk of itPage 23, Almost on the last knockings...Page 24, Well that's the grunt work donePage 25, Slow but surePage 26, Endgame

Page Number

Despite my dented ribs, it's another update !

Secondary Hull, Nacelles, Pylons, Filler, Glue, Foil Tape
& A Couple Of Near Screamin' Hissy Fits

Right then folks, we off again.

Copius amounts of squniting down the length of the parts to find the windows, some sort of precision pencil work and that ole foiling thing perpetrated to the insides of the secondary hull...

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And not too shabby I think you'll agree.

Now it occoured to me that the secondary hull is going to bear the brunt of some fair old forces due to the weight of the saucer, the nacells and the pole that will be holding the whole deal up so to help this along, I decided to make a little bit of seam joining assitance when it comes to all the joining together of parts.

A lip was made up by laying some foil tape along the seam, bending it inward then out at the same level as the inner surface then just plaster the epoxy steel all along the line...'ang on, better shown in the rough section pic below...

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Get the rough idea? So the black stuff laid on, takes about 10 mins or so to gel but full cure strength in about 24hrs and when its done it is bloody hard I can tell ya and sticks like nobodys business to the mouldings. That was done with a bottom line to one side and a top line to the other

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Tape removed and a wee trim up...

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Right then, next job was one long round of fun, and I use that word loosley, with the nacelles. This involved a clean up, fill in, sand down, look for faults in the surface and holes in joins, repeat several times untill I was happy and had stopped gnashing my teeth, spray some self etching primer, clear up surface faults shown by primer, repeat untill happy with finish and stopped swearing at it in varying volumes of voice. The result as shown below.

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Smooth.

Okedoke, time to get one of these beaties where it sould be. So, the bottom of the pylon has a step moulded into the face where it meets the secondary hull and the said step likewise replicated on the said secondary hull.

Try saying that fast.

Anyways, first job to mark out the places to drill and taking the aforementioned step as a marker and using the vernier, first was 'step' to center of forward pin then center forward pin to center rear pin, measurements transferred to secondary hull and places marked.

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That done, pilot hole of 1mm diameter drilled, then 2 then 3 then 4mm final diameter hole drilled out. The fit was too tight to run the pins in smoothly so a rattail neddle file was run around the hole gently and that allowed just the right snug but not overly tight fit, lovely!

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Only hole making job left was to measure, mark and cut out the hole for all the wiring, That sorted, a small area of foil inside the hull was removed from around the holes for the pylon mounting pins to make a larger glue adhesion area.

The faces to be glued on the secondary hull, pylon and pylon pins respectively were given a light roughing up with some ordinary 240 grit sandpaper, a final lighting test to make sure all was well then epoxy glue mixed in a smallish quantity. The stuff used now was simply clear epoxy, a 5 minute curing variety, liberally spread on said faces to be glued and the pylon slid into place.

Once that was done a larger amount was mixed and spread around the pylon pins sticking through the hull side and where the wiring comes through

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A bead or two of resin glue to be removed during cleanup and filling but that's ok as the beads indicate there's a good solid fit and the glue is covering the whole join so solid as it can be, the bugger won't be going anywhere else than where it's been put and that's what I was after.

Well that's that for now you merry lot, more to be done and it will be as time goes on I can promise you that!

More to come so stay tuned and go easy people!

Clicketh here for the redoutable page 1Click here for page 2 if you feel so inclined mate.Hit it here for the page 3 thingPage 4 can be got to by clicking here...honestPage 5...here...i kid thee not...Egad Brain...we can get to page six by clicking here...Narf!Page 7, light on words, heavy on picsGood grief, page 8Page 9...obvious but I just thought i'd mention itPage 10...double figures...good eh?

Page 11, Second line of pages, We not done yet it would seem!Page 12, Just no end to this!Yep it's that number 13, however nothing went wrong...Page 14, nice to be backPage 15...the silly stuff begins herePage 16, Makin' progress for oncePage 17, Al good bleary eyed buggerin' aboutPage 18, Lookin' goodPage 19, Just some fiddlin' about ya knowPage 20, Only a few more pages...honest!

Page 21, still goings on going onPage 22 Done with the bulk of itPage 23, Almost on the last knockings...Page 24, Well that's the grunt work donePage 25, Slow but surePage 26, Endgame

Page Number


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